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How My Jazz Fest is Shaping Up, How 'Bout Yours???
This is somewhat an exercise in futility given that the grids aren't out and once I get to NOLA, the best laid plans go up in smoke (and beer and hurricanes and heartburn) but it is still fun to plan...
Wednesday- get in, check into the Omni Royal in the quarter, go to a nice dinner with my wife at NOLA (somehow in 5 years of Jazz Fest, never hit an Emeril joint) before the rest of the crew arrives Thursday.
Thursday- some ham, eggs, biscuits and debris sandwich (and some brownies to go) at Mother's, a little stroll around the Quarter, walk down to the river, through Jackson Square, gaze at the Cathedral, head over to the fairgrounds in the afternoon, eat a soft shell crab po' boy, make it a point to just go where the music takes me for a while, but to try and catch Kermit, Widespread, Donald Harrison, and Randy Newman.
Meet up with half our crew just arriving at the hotel, have a casual dinner/drinks at Redfish Grill, maybe grab a hurricane on Bourbon, and them make the call to head up to Le Bon Temps to catch the Soul Rebels or the Republic for the Soulive/Lettuce gig, where the rest of the group will arrive, maybe a nightcap with Big Sam and Bonerama back in the quarter at Tips, but not too late a night.
Friday- breakfast the Coffee Pot, full day at the Fairgrounds, I think this is the deepest day between big names and great locals-- Art Neville, Stevie Wonder, ,Michael Franti & Spearhead, ,John Butler Trio,Trombone Shorty & Orleans Ave, Papa Grows Funk,The Lee Boys, John Boutté, Soul Rebels, holy ***!
Friday night- going to try one of the new guard of Nawlins' eateries, Cuvee on Magazine, we got a nice round table for 10 for our whole group, then it is off to the Blue Nile to get our minds blown by Trombone Shorty, then whatever is movin us on Frenchman, and whoever is left standing will head up to Tips to the 2AM Galactic show.
Saturday- Commanders Palace brunch starting with some bloody mary's to ease the pain from Friday, back to the Fairgrounds to check out Jimmy Buffett, Diana Krall, Steel Pulse, The Roots, Dirty Dozen Brass Band, Henry Butler, Aaron Neville’s Gospel Soul.
dinner at the Fairgrounds, Crawfish Monica, Muffulletta, meat pies. Maybe a quick nap or some drinks on the roof at the hotel, go over to the HOB and sell my Rebirth/Shorty tix, maybe catch a little of the Lupe Fiasco show as an appetizer for the main course, Derek Trucks, Funky Meters, Big Sam at the Howlin' Wolf! I am not dissing Shorty (catching him the night before at Blue Nile and at the Fairgrounds) or Rebirth, because we will head over to the Rock N Bowl late night to see Rebirth, I am ashamed to admit I have never been to R &B!, also hope to catch some of these shows there- Cyril Neville and Friends, Tribe 13, Big Chief Monk Boudreaux & the Wild Tchoupitoulas. Then it could be curtains for the girls and the boys back at Tips for the late Greyboys All Star show, if Karl can get play all night, we should be able to stay up and take it in. Grab a late night burger at Igor's
Sunday- Sleep in!, Head to Palace Cafe brunch on way to fairgrounds, get some crabmeat cheese cake and bananas fosters, try to regroup, head over to the Fairgrounds, check out The Neville Brothers, Santana, ,The Raconteurs, Galactic, The Radiators, The Derek Trucks Band, Keb’ Mo’, Rebirth Brass Band, Ivan Neville’s Dumpstaphunk
Sunday night- maybe another Fairgrounds dinner or somewhere real chill in the Quarter. I promised myself I would avoid the stampede at Tip's for Dumpstaphunk for the 3rd year in a row, but we will see if I can be strong once the moment is upon me, maybe catch the Soul Rebels at Le Bon Temps if I go to Soulive on Thursday. Crash.
Monday- Cafe Du Mond for beignets and coffee, follow the wife around like a zombie in the Quarter, wonder how I failed to see Papa Mali/step foot in the Maple Leaf/eat at Jacque Imo's as she frantically shops on Magazine, pack up, head to the airport, head back north!
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On a blistering hot day, Newport Folk was an extremely refreshing experience for this first time attendee. My previous festival outings had been long distance, multiple day affairs with lots of travel from Boston to New Orleans (Jazz Fest) or Austin Texas (Austin City Limits) It was really nice to be able to just wake up at home, jump in the car and head down to scenic Newport. It was actually 10 degrees cooler on the Rhode Island Coast, but still pretty hot. I was relieved when I arrived at Fort Adams to see several things. The crowd was healthy, although numbering close to 10,000 was much smaller than what I am used to, leaving plenty of room to maneuver. And even better was the fact that the festival grounds were bordered by the spectacular Newport harbor with yachts coming and going. It offered a gorgeous backdrop to the festival, but more importantly, the ocean breeze provided much needed relief from the heat. I got there just in time to catch the end of the Dirty Dozen Band who went on early (11:30 AM). It was actually kind of strange for me to see a band that I am accustomed to seeing playing in the wee hours in New Orleans before noon. And despite my earlier praise of the setting, it didn’t seem to be the right fit for this legendary band I think is best seen in a small club at night. The normally pounding rhythm is somewhat swallowed up by the large main stage, and huge open grounds. Nevertheless, I am a New Orleans brass fanatic and anytime I can get it up North, I am happy. Next up was Grace Potter and the Nocturnals. Potter is a soulful lead, and almost as impressive as her smooth vocals was her work on the B3 organ. This blues/rock/jam band put on one of the most impressive of the day. Next up was the John Butler Trio. This was my third time seeing them and I went in with high expectations. They did not disappoint, combining reggae and blues, prompting perhaps the most enthusiastic response of the day from the pretty mellow crowd. The Trio is a well-oiled machine and played a few favorites from their last alum as well as the new one, Grand National. Three performances down and I had yet to see anything that could be considered pure folk. As I had mentioned in my preview, that seems to be the strategy of the Festival, bringing on more bluesy jam bands on the main stage with the folkies relegated to the smaller, but more intimate stages. I headed to the smallest of those stages to check out Tom Morello transform himself into “the Nightwatchman”. Morello is much better known as the guitarist in Rage Against the Machine and Audio Slave. I admire him for doing something completely different and taking a chance. And it is clear he is very passionate about this project, a forum for his strong political views and criticism of the government and state of the US. He is getting his fair share of praise from critics for his fiery enthusisasm and impassioned lyrics, but there were a couple things I could not get over. First, his guitar playing seems very choppy as a folk performer, he does not seem nearly as skilled as he does as a rocker, and not just because it is a stripped down format. I saw Springsteeen’s Seeger sessions, where he pays homage to folk/roots music of yesteryear last Summer and found it as compelling and well-executed as any E Street band rock performances. But the real killer for me was the god-awful singing, it was unbearable. I am all for Morello getting his words his views and feelings out, but for me, I would vastly prefer it if he wrote a novel or book of poems, which I am sure this Harvard grad would be more than capable of. He referred to his evolution as “Dylan in reverse” but I would say it was more like “Dylan stuck in then mud.” Speaking of Dylan, the North Mississippi All-Stars were up next, and they did a tribute to Old Bob to open up their set with “Slow Train Comin.”. This was fitting since Newport’s watershed moment was Dylan going electric way back in 1965. Once again blues and jamming were the overriding theme of this 90 minute set, and it was executed capably, but at this point I was looking for something a little different. Towards the end of the set, I headed over to the open air bar which was right on the water and quite popular with the crowd considering it was the only place where alcohol was served. This was the first year alcohol was served at all since the near riot of 1971, when Newport Folk was a far more rowdy affair. I think they will be safe in further easing restrictions in future years as those looking to cause mischief are more likely to be found at larger rock festivals like Bonnaroo or Lollapalooza. The Allman Brothers were the final and most anticipated of the day. I had seen them play a riveting set earlier this Summer at JazzFest highlighted by the guest performance by Susan Tedeschi, and at this point once a summer is enough for me. I found this performance to be a little more wandering, although you can see that Warren Haynes and Derek Trucks have really developed chemistry on the guitars. Highlights included Greg Allman’s vocals on “Midnight Rider” and Warren Haynes doing a credible Van Morrison imitation on “Into the Mystic” I was less impressed with his vocals on the Band's “The Weight” but this may have been because I was comparing it to Tedeschi’s stellar version of the same song at JazzFest. I ducked out to beat the crowds. Overall, it was a very enjoyable day, a beautiful setting, and I was highly impressed with how smooth and professionally the event was run by Festival Productions. The music was solid if not spectacular, and while I may not take away any unforgettable highlights like I did at Austin City Limits or Jazz Fest, I had a great time with none of the headaches of long-distance travel. I will most likely be back for Newport Folk next year, regardless of how much folk there is to be had.
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Sorry to post this preview so close to the event, but I wasn’t sure if I was going to be able to make it down to Newport tomorrow. But things fell into place, and I am pretty excited about my first time at the legendary event most famous for Bob Dylan going electric in 1965. Truth be told, I wouldn’t consider myself a folkie. I am a huge Dylan fan, but who isn’t? But I guess I am not the only one, because a few years ago, George Wein, the godfather of the American music festival, saw the writing on the wall and started to diversify the lineup. With attendance to starting to lag and festivals springing up of by the dozen nationwide, Newport began to morph into a multi-genre event featuring folk. The result has been bringing in casual folk fans like me, who like the music, but are more attracted to an eclectic lineup than a pure folk event. And an eclectic lineup it is. There are a lot of choices to make. This is my plan of attack, all subject to change, as it should be at a music festival that has so much going on. I always try to go in with a game plan but once there, also try to go with the flow. I will be at the crack of dawn (well 7AM on a Saturday is pretty close) to make sure I am on my way down to Newport from Boston in plenty of time to take a boat ride on the Newport Harbor over to Fort Adams Park and make sure we are safely inside as the festival kicks off. It is not usually my style to be an early arriver, but I wouldn’t miss one of my beloved acts from New Orleans. The Dirty Dozen Brass Band. I usually see them in their hometown at the Fairgrounds at JazzFest, or ripping it up at night on Frenchman Street or Tiptina’s Uptown. I was lucky enough to catch them at BB Kings’s in Times Square when I was in NYC for work a few months ago. What most impressed me was how they were equally as adept playing a strict bass set as they were later in the show when a talented group of string and percussion performers joined them on stage. Dirty Dozen should get the blood flowing and the people moving early. From there I will probably head over to grab a refreshment at the Harbor Open Air Café, which features wine and beer. I would normally take this sort detour for granted, but I was astounded to learn that after a raucous 1971 edition, the festival was banned and did not reemerge until 1986 sans alcohol More power to the folkies over the last 20 years, it shows it really was about the music, but I am glad that tradition has been put to rest. For me a cold one is an indispensable festival accessory. After fueling up, I will head over to check out Grace Potter and the Nocturnals, I have never seen them, but have heard good things about. They are a blues rock quartet based out of Vermont and Grace supposedly has an extremely soulful voice, I will let you know if I concur. Form there, I will go for my pay homage to the festival and taken in a pure folk performance in the form of a Wainright family sing-along. That’s right they will all be there, well at least the females (Martha, Sloan, and Lucy will make Loudon and Rufus proud). This will give me a chance to see Martha after missing her earlier set that coincides with Grace Potter and the Nocturnals. From there, it will be off to catch the John Butler Trio, who I first discovered at the 2005 JazzFest. They are really hard to classify, a unique blend of roots/jam/reggae but whatever you call them, call them good. They are huge in their native Australia, and starting to make their mark here as well, just releasing their second album. I was lucky enough to catch them doing a free show in Copley Square in Boston a few ago as they were spreading the word here in the States. After that, I am pumped to check out the North Mississippi All-Stars for the first time. They are festival warriors, featuring psychedelic, southern rock and blues. I will cap the day off by checking out the Allman Brothersfor the second time this summer. I saw them at Jazz Fest this year, which was highlighted by when Susan Tedeschi, an unexpected guest (although not entirely since her husband Derek Trucks is in the band) came out with some sweet vocals on a medley of the Band covers. The Allmans are probably playing better now with Derek Trucks and Warren H better than at any point since Dickie Betts was booted from the band. After that, the only thing left on my agenda will be to head over to Federal Hill to get some of the best Italian food around, Boston may have the North End, but is has little if anything off some of Providence’s finest trattorias.
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Where Friday was partly about the storm, partly about the food and partly about the music Saturday was pretty much all about the music with two great meals mixed in. We started the day around noon, it was gloriously sunny but not as humid as New Orleans usually starts to get in May. Anxious to get the fairgrounds, we chose to dine at the no-frills, down-home, legendary Mother's famous for crawfish omelettes, heavenly ham, and sinful pecan pie and brownies. After that, we headed to the Fairgrounds, all six of us in the rental SUV. Parking can be a chore at the fairgounds, there is no lot, but I have come to realize that it is best to park 1/2 mile away and walk rather than circle around for 45 minutes, looking for a friendly local to let you park in their driveway. When we got in, I knew immediately that Jazz Fest was officially back -- all the way back, the place was packed, maybe more crowded than I had ever seen. The fact that a lot of people had not braved the torrential downpour Friday, the perfect weather, and the fact that there were three big name closing acts playing simultaneously (Allman Brothers, John Mayer, John Legend), an unusual treat/dilemma, were the contributing factors. We made a quick stop into the Gospel Tent, which is the coolest place on the Fairgrounds temperature wise and in a lot of ways overall. For me, the first time I saw this incredible music, it was a real eye opener, I could not believe how powerful and uplifting it was in person. I have heard many people say "If my church was like this, I would go all the time." My friends were impressed but I told them this was nothing, it seemed almost like a warm up compared to what I had seen in the past, and we would come back. We headed over to the Acura Stage to check out Galactic. This New Orleans funk band is everywhere at Jazz Fest and right away I could tell that the Acura Stage was not their best environment, they really are best indoors at a small, intimate club, it was tough to catch their groove among the throngs of onlookers so we made a quick exit and headed to Congo Square, my favorite Jazz Fest stage. The offspring of Bob Marley, Stephen and Damian "Junior Gong' Marley were moving the crowd. I have heard other festival complain about too many originals or too many Bob covers, but on this day, they kept the crowd guessing as they mixed in just enough of both. Highlights for me where their version of "No Woman, No Cry" and Damian's current hit, "Welcome to Jam Rock" They also brought out an African performer to sing with them at the end who blended in nicely on the vocals. We continued onward, briefing stopping at for a bunch of Southern Comfort based frozen beverages that were initially refreshing, but melted quickly. Gentilly Square was mobbed as people waited for the Allman Brothers and we had to fight the crowd to get in the center, even as we were really far back. The girls were definitely heading to see John Mayer and John Legend after 30 minutes, and I had told Melissa I would join her. But the Allmans started really slowly with a couple unrecognizable, pretty bad sounding numbers and I had just gotten comfortable, so I decided to hang with the guys for a while, chill out in the now perfect weather, and watch the sunset with the Allmans playing. The Allmans lineup is always mutating but on this day it was strong featuring Butch and Derek Trucks, Greg Allman, and Warren Haynes. My wife Melissa waited for them to pay her namesake and they played a beautiful version, even slower than usual, just with her earshot as she headed over to see John Mayer. The highlight of the set for me by far was when surprise guest (well not that big a surprise since she is the wife of Derek Trucks) Susan Tedeschi, joined the band for a cover of the Band's staples, "The Weight" and the "Up on Cripple Creek. Her melodious vocal were also surprising powerful carrying over to me even as the three of us made a pit stop for 12 Bud Lights, dumping our SoCo slush puppies. While at the Allmans I was really conntent just relaxing and I ran into my friends Suzanne and Eric and they had a comfy lawn chair for me which sealed my fate of not heading over to see either John. We told them if we did not show we would meet up at 7:15 back at the Gospel Tent and head out, and that is what we did, with a brief stop to pick up some crabmeat stuffed shrimp to hold us over till dinner. The girls had the same idea, stopping for the most famous fairgrounds fare, the Crawfish Monica. The food at Jazz Fest is so far better than what you would find at any other festival, choosing what to order is as difficult as choosing which stage to go to. We met up with the girls and we could see the exhilaration in their face. They told us of John Mayer's command performance where he played a couple hits like "Waiting For the World To Change" but saw quickly that the Jazz Fest crowd was there to check out his considerable and sometimes overshadowed guitar chops and from there, as I was told, he laid down some pretty heavy blues guitar riff and charmed the crowd with some stories of his past and mixed in some jokes, he always walks a fine line between amusing and smart-ass/annoying but on this day he was able to walk straight, or maybe it was just the joyful Jazz Fest crowd guiding him. The girls were even more excited about the apparently smoldering performace of John Legend, but with only a second hand account, I can really only tell you more about his sinewy physique and perfectly groomed appearance, we told the girls enough was enough as they commented on how surprisingly sexy he was. We got into traffic heading back into the Quarter, which was a first for me, and further confirmed the sheer volume of attendees. I didn't mind as it gave me a chance to reflect on the day, which was a blast, with my two regrets being not rotating during the headline sets, and not getting much local flavor except in passing brass bands and zydeco performers, that would change the following day. We hit the showers, and headed out to K Paul's Louisiana Kitchen, which was right by the hotel on Chartres street. I gorged on fried green tomatoes, shrimp remoulade, corn and crabmeat chowder, and speckled trout with crabmeat and grilled veggies, it was arguably my best meal. Melissa was not as impressed as the Cajun spices were a major presence, and she tends to go for the sweet dished like pecan crusted catfish. From there, we headed to one of my favorite spots in New Orleans, The Republic. The place was packed, and anticipation was high for George Clinton and Parliament. We had seen the one-of a-kind show last year in the same place and they basically tore the roof off. I was a little concerned in the beginning because George seeemed out if and was babbling to the crowd, the female singer that had carried the show last year was no where to be found, and there seemed to be mass confusion on the stage with people wandering in and out more than playing an instrument. But that was all part of the master plan, we had been late last year, and had missed this portion. Basically they lulled us to sleep, then starting grooving, playing numbers such as One Nation Under a Groove, and Atomic Dog, and then blew the collective mind of the crowd with a lengthy James Brown tribute complete with outrageous costumes paying homage to the Hardest Working Man in Show Business. The place was literally shaking, it was crazy. At one point, one of the performers who was wearing no shirt and about six colored, balloon on his head, leaped from the stage, blew past me as I was standing at the door, and went running down the street, never to return. The bouncer confirmed my suspicion that the band was feeling more than the groove, if you know what I mean, including George himself, who is approaching or maybe just past eighty. At this point George is more of a conductor of the mayhem and symbol for P-Funk than a performer, but the crowd worshipped him as if he were Prince. The real highlights on stage were the other man almost as old as George in diaper and nothing else, the stunningly beautiful female vocalist in a gold dress, the shocking ripped singer in a shirtless tuxedo, and the James Brown singer/dancer. It was pure funk and you could tell no one was going home after the show, everyone had too much adrenaline. We headed to my favorite area of New Orleans, Frenchman Street famous for the many great live venues all next to each other and the street performers on every corner. We headed into Snug Harbor to try and catch Trombone Shorty, who backed U2 and Green Day on their recent New Orleans tribute, only to find it was sold out. Apparently John Mayer and Jessica Simpson were at the roof level club, adding to the circus environment. I made an initial offer to the women at the door of $10 extra per head, $60 total, and was shocked when she accepted. But it was not to be, just as we were being led up stairs, thew owner intervened and nixed us, we may have been to obvious in our excitement to get up there. We were disappointed, but on Frenchman Street dissapointment is fleeting with so many great acts playing with 100 yards, so we headed to Cafe Brasil to check out the killer duo of Big Sam, the horn player from Big Sam's Funky Nation and Papa Mali, the swamp blues/rock guitarist. They were joined by an awesome saxophonist, I wasn't sure who it was, maybe the front man from Papa Grows Funk. The details of the show are very hazy, especially after a joint was freely passed among the crowd throughout the show, which stopped my friend Gary dead in his track and rendered him unable to get up once he sat down. Melissa was somehow sleeping and bobbing her head at the same time, Bill and Graeme were dancing but noticeably slowing their pace, and it was 4AM so we headed out. What a day and night of music! Pictures soon!
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First, let me apologize for not posting previews for Saturday and Sunday or any live coverage from Jazz Fest. Things get pretty hectic before I left since it was my first time planning for more than Melissa (my wife) and I. We had two other couples joining us for their maiden voyage and I wanted them to get the full experience of New Orleans during Jazz Fest. While there, between the days at the Fairgrounds, the incredible meals and the late, late night shows, I was just not in blogging condition, but I aim to make it up to you know with some words and photos (coming soon) that will give you a taste of Jazz Fest. We got of to a little bit of a rocky start. We flew in with one of the other couples, Gary and Dianne from Boston on Thursday. The plan was to check in, have dinner at Jacque Imo's, maybe hit the Maple Leaf to see a show, then head down to Frenchman Street for the Reggae All Stars and Karl Denson playing with New Orleans Third Line Brass. But both Diane and my bags did not make it in, causing a delay and putting a little damper on our arrival into the Big Easy. By the time we got out of Jacque Imo's, our belies were full of cornbread, pecan crusted cat fish, redfish in imperial crab meat sauce, and we called it an early night, figuring we should try to deal with the lost luggage issue early and get out to the fairgrounds. The hotel was beautiful, on the corner of the Chartres and St. Louis, right in the heart of the quarter, but in a quiet sections surrounded by cafes, courtyards, and boutiques, everyone was happy about it, after 4 years, I had found the ideal home base. The morning came quickly and with ominous skies. There was still no sign of the luggage so we headed the the Coffee Pot, famous for its egg sardou and a waitress named Pearl, who had been there for 47 years entertaining patrons with her quick service and even quicker tongue. Pearl was not there, but our waitress must have been her understudy as she lived up to what we thought Pearl. She mocked Gary openly for his decidedly un-New Orleans order, hard boiled eggs and plain toast. He was suffering some stomach trauma complements of Jacque Imo's. He tried to make up for it by throwing a screwdriver in there, but she was not impressed. The rest of his saved some face by ordering banana pecan pancakes, the house specialty (the eggs sardou, which was a poached egg on an english muffin with cream spinach and hollandaise sauce, yum). We called the hotel and still no luggage, so we decided to buy a few items to get by (getting by for Diane was four new outfits) and head to the Fairgrounds. But it was not to be as the skies opened up and one of the most intense thunderstorms since Katrina ensued. Dianne and Melissa knew it was bad, when they were trapped in a boutique in the Quarter as waters rose above the sidewalk level and splashed the boutique owners began to fear their shop would be flooded. Gary and I had made it back to the hotel and watched weather reports detailing a canal which was about to overflow dew to some broken pumps. It was a tiny slice for us to feel what it was like to live in a city below sea level. There was a brief break in the storm and we jumped into the car, determined to make it the Fairgrounds, but it picked up just as fierce, and we decided to park, and take cover in some of the Bourbon Street taverns. The first place was one of those cheesy Bourbon Street bars where a DJ sings along out of tune over the terrible songs playing and fails miserably at humor, leaving him no choice but to wallow in summer camp level obscene gestures and language for the jarheads in the bar. We moved onto the Bourbon Street Blues Company, which was a vast improvement with a more reasonable crowd, a pretty good rock cover band, featuring a front woman who did a pretty mean Janis Joplin but looked more like Chrisitna Applegate, not that good, but closer that than Janis. I was pretty impressed, but still somewhat antsy given we had been in town for eighteen hours and had yet to see any of the music I had come for. But Gary, on the other hand, being a strict classic rock enthusiast was thoroughly enthralled. It may have been his musical highlight of the weekend before or after he saw some amazing performances at the Fairgrounds. The things started going our way. Our luggage arrived and the sun came out. We flirted with the idea of heading to the Fairgrounds just to catch the final acts of the day ZZ Top and Counting Crows, having missed out on the local stuff I wanted to see like Dumpstaphunk, John Boutee,and the Dirty Dozen Brass Band, which was dissapointing but 2/3rds of which I was confident we could catch at a night show in a bar or club. But we decided to hold off since it was so late, and save our energy for that night and make up for it at the Fairgrounds Saturday and Sunday. The other couple, Bill and Graeme, arrived by way of Gulfport, Mississippi around 7. They got in at the perfect time as the storm ended and made the 75 mile trek to New Orleans. We decided to go for a casual dinner at the Redfish Grill on Bourbon and try to catch Chief Bo Dollis and the Wild Magnolias at Handa Wanda's on Dyrades Street. I was a little concerned because I had been to most the clubs that have night shows during Jazz Fest and had never heard of Handa Wanda's or Dryades Street. I should have been doubly concerned when the first tow cab drivers had not heard of the place either and would not take us there, But this incrediblely authentic, talented group of Mardi Gras Indians and their Japanese guitar maestro June Yamagishi had been my incredible, unforgettable introduction to New Orleans music and I wanted to baptize the newbies the same way. But we drove around a pretty neighborhood for twenty minutes and when we finally pulled up to the dilapidated Handa Wanda's it was sparsely populated with some shady people, the lights were on, and I could feel the tension among my friends, so after I quickly surveyed, I jumped back in the cab, as the doormen tried to stop me by yelling "Paul Shaefer will be here soon." It didn't seem like a place for David Lettermen's sheepish, wimpy sidekick, but I believed him since I had seen something about this on the night grids, which detailed all the shows happening after dark at Jazz Fest. But the decision had been made, and Paul Schaeffer is really not a huge draw when you really think about it and it was off to the Howlin' Wolf for the Bayou Rendezvous (see all bands performing) an all night affair featuring the New Orleans Social Club, Papa Grows Funk, Theresa Andersen.and Papa Grows Funk. That is where Jazz Fest 2007 really kicked off for us. The New Orleans Social Club, comprised of Meters George Porter and Leo Nocentelli, Ivan Neville of Dumpstaphunk, and Henry Butler, were the perfect way to get things going. The packed crowd at the Howlin Wolf grooved to Meters songs, originals from the post-Katrina album this all star team came together for, and some great covers including a stirring, funkdafied version of Credence Clearwaters's "Fortunate Son". I could see immediately that the other couples were enjoying themselves and that they would be Jazz Fest junkies in little time. We didn't have a care until were quickly jerked back into reality as Gary was escorted outan extremely small, youthful Howlin Wolf bouncer for smoking weed behind a black curtain, which could not have made it more obvious as it reflected the orange flame from the lighter and nothing else. This was not two minutes after he had agreed with me that he would be much less likey to be seen if he did it among the packed crowd. Luckily for us, the tiny staff member seemed only to want to flex his verbal muscles a little and did not have a full blown Napoleon complex. I caught the tail end of him lecturing Gary like his father Frank do when Gary was five years old, but could tell he was going to let him back in, which he did. Once back inside, we breathed a collective sigh of relief and settled in for a night of pure New Orleans jazz and funk. Higlight included Theresa Andersen on the violin and the 2AM Papa Grows Funk performance. Justice was served as the group did get to see the legendary Yamagishi who was on his second band of the night, play some pretty mean guitar with Papa Grows Funk, so while it was not the full Wild Magnolias, it was a start. We made it until the end of the Papa Grows Funk show and headed out as the true diehards readied themselves for the 4:30 AM Eric Lindell Trio Show. To be continued....
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Unlike last year, I am not going to write another short treatise of a preview, by the time I was finished, combined with my sheer exhaustion upon my return from Boston, I had little gas in the tank to focus on reviews. However, that still may stand the test of time for you first timers, the names and faces are sometimes different but the joints remain the same. With that said, let's move on to my condensed game plan for Jazz Fest starting Thursday. While putting this together I questioned the merits of this level of planning since one of the keys to Jazz Fest is spontaneity, but I have done it for two basic reasons. 1) Better safe than sorry. I may indeed decide to make some changes on the fly, but I go in knowing that I have a solid base to work off with tickets I can get rid of and reservations I can cancel, instead of waiting in lines and at the mercy of others for tickets. 2) I am so excited to get down there, that reading show announcements, poring over the Fairgounds grids, and reading up on the heavenly cuisine are just a way for me to transport myself there early. Here is what I have come up with, Thursday night 9:30 PM- Check into the Omni Royal- I think I have finally found an ideal hotel in that is in the Quarter, but not a generic one like the ones on Canal, or one that is right on Bourbon where you are greeted each morning with the incredible stink that emanates from the debauchery of the evening before. 10:30- Dinner at Jacque Imos This will be my first time but I have heard great things, I like the idea of incredible New Orleans cuisine that can stand up with the fancy spots like Arnaud's or some Emerill's places, but in a completely casual, neighborhood environment that is set by it's quirky owners Midnight- head over to Frenchman street to ease into the music scene- Although I am tempted to go straight to Tipitina's for the Rebirth Brass Band/Dirty Dozen Brass Band show,I will refrain from going 0 to 60, knowing I will have plenty of chances over the four days to see these elite 'Nawlins bands. The beauty of Frenchman Street is that there are so may great live music venues featuring every thing from reggae, to hip-hop to jazz of course. We will probably ease into things with the 3rd Coast Reggae All Stars at Ray's Club, mosey over to the Blue Nile to see the 3rd Line with the hardest working man at Jazz Fest, Karl Denson (of Greyboy All Stars fame) sitting in. We will try and get home by 2 or 3, an early night to save ourselves for the next 48 hours, which will for the most part, be sleepless! To be continued..... Ok, I am back. A quick change to my Thursday night itinerary, I have decided to deep six my plan to ease into the music and go straight the real deal. I had forgotten that the legendary Maple Leaf is right next door to Jacque Imo's, so I can't pass up the opportunity to see George Porter, Johnny Vicadovich, two New Orleans greats, collaborate with Marco Benevento and Skerik. Won't stay too long, since we will see the first two quite a bit as the weekend unfolds, so a pit stop at the Leaf then onto Frenchman! Friday- I will probably start with a hearty breakfast at Brennan's, it is right on the way to the Fairgrounds. My picks for Friday are Dumphastunk featuring Ivan Neville, the Dirty Dozen Brass Band, John Boute and the Counting Crowes. sometimes I find it hard to justify seeing the mainstream closing acts like the Crowes, but I a slated to see so much local talent at night this year, and the Crowes seem like a nice break as I lick back and the sun sets. First day I tend to wander the fairgrounds and just soak up the sounds, people etc, and you can be sure I will make a trip to the infamous Gospel Tent and grab a softshell crab po' boy!. Friday night will be dinner at K Paul's. Friday night, I will most likely spend most of my night at the Bayou Rendezvous at the Howlin Wolf. Just look at this lineup, a who's who of New Orleans royalty from 9 PM to 6AM. However, time permitting, we will head first to Handa Wanda's, to see Big Chief Bo Dollis, the Wild Magnolia's and Japanese import/guitarist extraordinaiire, who made good on his promise to Bo in Japan that he would eventually make it to the States and track him down! We are going with two first time couples, and this truly authentic 'Nawlins show is just the crash course they need! And only at Jazzfest can you see a Japanese guitarist play in two different local groups in two places on the same night, June will be at the Wolf as part of Papa Grows Funk at 2AM! to be contined...
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When you think of Blues, Chicago springs to mind, Nashville is the hotbed of country music, and when you think of Bluegrass...actually I should stop while I am ahead, Telluride is a long way from Kentucky, but two out of three ain't bad, and my larger point is that these festivals either have a built-in heritage or have established one to the point where they easily won the Festie in their respective category. Best Blues Fest- Chicago Blues nominees Arkansas Blues & Heritage (AK)
Beale Street Music Festival (TN)
Blues by the Bay (CA)
Chicago Blues (IL)
Monterey Bay Blues (CA)
Pittsburgh Blues (PA)
Safeway Waterfront Blues (OR)
Santa Cruz Blues (CA)
San Francisco Blues (CA)
Telluride Blues & Brews (CO) Chicago is one of the best cities in America. Chicago is home to some of the best blues musicians around, world famous Blues clubs such as the Checkerboard Lounge and most legendary blues performers such as Buddy Guy (also the owner of the original Checkerboard Lounge.) When you combine that heritage with the fact that the festival is completely free and it is held in Grant Park, it is a tough combination to beat. Ans then when you add a lineup featuring Robert Lockwood Jr., Honeyboy Edwards, The Lee Boys, Louisiana Red,Henry Butler, Big George Brock, as they might say in a Chicago pizzeria- fahgettaboutit!
nominees
Another runaway victory, once again, a no-contest. Nashville,the home the legendary Ryman Auditorium, Country Music Hall of Fame and the World Famous Tootsie's Orchid Lounge all hosts the Super Bowl of country festivals. All the big names were there Keith Anderson, Clint Black, Los Lonely Boys and Ronnie Milsap, Joe Nichols, LeAnn Rimes, Charlie Daniels Band, and the fans were treated to the unique Fan Fair, family and Fun Zones.
Best Bluegrass Festival- Telluride Bluegrass-
nominees
Unlike Chicago and Nashville, this musical genre may not be the first thing you think of when it comes to Telluride, skiing and Rocky Mountains may pop into your head, but bluegrass is gaining fast. It may not have the long tradition of a festival like bluegrass icon Bill Monroe's Bean Blossom Fest, but what it lacks in history, it makes up for with its spectacular setting, which it won another Festie for, and its incredibly talented and deep lineup which featured Tim O'Brien, Bela Fleck, Yonder Mountain String Band and Sam Bush, "the Mayor of Telluride, Barenaked Ladies, Del McCoury Band and Bonnie Raitt.
Hardly Strictly Bluegrass, the annual gift of tycoon Warren Hellman to the city of San Francisco, came in a distant 2nd, but don't cry for the HSB- it emerged victorious in the Best Free Festival category
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Best Midsize to Large Festival- Beale Street Music (TN)
Gathering of the Vibes (NY)
Green Apple Music (NY)
High Sierra (CA)
Litchfield Jazz (CT)
McDowell Mountain (AZ)
Monterey Bay Blues (CA)
San Francisco Blues (CA)
Telluride Bluegrass (CO)
Voodoo Music (NO) This was a case where there were some great nominees in great locales so the competition was stiff, but it was still a landslide victory for High Sierra. It seems as though no one has a bad thing to say about this festival in the picturesque California mountains. That settting puts everyone in a great mood, which is one of the reasons High Sierra narrowly missed taking home two additional Festies in the categories of Most Scenic Festival and Most Fan-Friendly Festival. The great vibe was matched by the incredibly eclectic lineup featuring jam bands like the Disco Biscuits and Umphery's McGee, Bluegrass maestros such as Nickel Creek and Bela Fleck, and some New Orleans jazz royalty, the Rebirth Brass Band. It didn't hurt that one of the sensations of the 2006 festival circuit, My MorningJacket played their usual phenomenal set. MelodyTrip was there and our man Chris McBridedid a great job giving us the low down! The only hint of negativity is that the initial 2007 lineup doesn't look quite as strong, and there is some concern going around the blogosphere about whether High Sierra's success will lead to it growing and losing itsmid-size feel. They would then be forced to go up against the big boys in the Festies like Austin City Limits and Coachella. Stay gold High Sierra, don't change! The next two winners were no surprise, Bonnaroo, winner of best overall fest was the logical choice as Best Rock Fest. And New Orleans Jazz Fest, Bonnaroo's bridesmaid in the Best Overall Fest won by a wide margin in the Best Jazz Festival category. For more on those two memorable events, check out my last blog where I posted some live performances from My Morning Jacket and Bruce Springsteen. I think this guy voted for High Sierra for the Festie!
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Our goal is to bring you to you to every grat festival worldwide, but we realize it will never be accomplished, there is simply too much going on. Did you know that a new music festival starts every 46 minutes somewhere in the world? Ok, I made that up, maybe because I have always fallen for it when people use that technique- "Did you know that a robbery occurs every seven minutes in Mexico", it is almost taken as truth no matter what you say, it you can look and sound assertive. But anyways, back to my point, you will start seeing more and more coverage on MelodyTrip from Sunrise, Florida to Dubai in the United Arab Emirates! But try as we may, we will miss quite a bit, both in terms of physically being there or presenting a point of view. So I will try and pass on some good festival blogs as I come across them and give you my two cents on them... Darren Straight gets deep and examines whether festivals will survive in the Web 2.0 World. I am biased, but I think they will continue not only to survive, but to thrive! There has been more technological advance in the last five years than any other time in my life, and over those five years, music festivals have exploded upon the scene in the US. I think the more time people spend in cubicles, on keyboards, in front of huge screens with eyes glazed over, the more they will need a real, thrilling, reminder that humans a) like to be outdoors b) enjoylive music c) really like to drink beer and take drugs! Maybe all these things will be simulated in web 3.0, but I doubt it and for now, podcasts, webcasts, blogs etc simply cannot come take the place of being at a festival. LizBarker has come up with a good pre-Coachella list of albums, you remember the album don't you? Tao of Pauly tells us what we missed at Langerado, he's got the low down on bands, some nice shots and a few funny observations about the crowd vibe at the first big fest of the year, he and Andy Smith seem to confirm my suspicion that My Morning Jacket is somehow quietly but definitively, taking over the world. Justin over at Livemusicblog is usually got a good feel for the pulse of the live music scene and industry, but even more impressive is when he is wrong, (and he was dead wrong on this one!)he is not afraid to admit it) Anyone who was at Jazzfest last year can tell you how completely incredible it was to watch the incredible therapeutic and spiritual effect that the beloved festival had on the locals. And Matt Simpson is dead on about the uniqueness of JazzFest for fans, there is nothing like it, I found out first hand when I went to Austin City Limits , which is a great event and often has won Pollstar's festival of the year, but after going to Jazz Fest last year, in comparison it almost felt sterile and lacking soul (and I had a great time, that is just how amazing Jazzfest is!) Rock Yatra tries to guide you through a daunting and impossible task, deciding what bands to see among the thousands, most of which you have never heard of, but many that you definitely will soon, at the sprawling South By Southwest fest this week!
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Howdy folks. This is Scott. I don't really say howdy and I am NOT a red stater but wanted you to get a little of the Austin feel (which is also extremely blue in political nature). I will be one of your humble narrators for the South By Southwest (SXSW from here on out) experience. A little about me first. I am an Austin resident so I have easy access to the festival. I also happen to be a musician here in town and my band is playing several times during the festival so that will give me another layer of access that I will be reporting back to you guys from. I can assure you that my band will be the highlight of the festival, but I will certa | | | |